Editorial Board

Searching for the New Luxury?

Published in
Issue #00

Daniëlle Bruggeman is a cultural theorist specializing in fashion as a socio-cultural phenomenon. In January 2017, she was appointed Professor of Fashion (Lector Mode) at ArtEZ University of the Arts. She teaches both the M.A. in Fashion Strategy and the M.A. in Fashion Design at ArtEZ and leads the Centre of Expertise Future Makers in collaboration with Professor Jeroen van den Eijnde. Bruggeman holds a PhD in Cultural Studies—‘Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World’ (2010-2014) from Radboud University Nijmegen, funded by the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research—which was part of the first large-scale interdisciplinary research project on fashion in the Netherlands. She was a visiting scholar at Parsons, the New School for Design (NYC), and at the London College of Fashion. She has published on topics like the fluid, performative and embodied dimensions of identity, (Dutch) fashion photography, and fashion as a new materialist aesthetics. Her current research interests include exploring more engaged approaches, vocabularies and strategies, using fashion as a tool for systemic change and societal transformation. On April 25, 2018, Daniëlle Bruggeman gave her inaugural lecture and presented the accompanying publication Dissolving the Ego of Fashion: Engaging with Human Matters (ArtEZ Press, 2018), which outlines her main research lines for the coming years.

The Fashion Professorship aims to develop critical theories and practices in order to explore, better understand, and rethink the cracks in the fashion system, as well as the role that fashion plays—and could potentially play—in relation to urgent socio-cultural, environmental, and political developments in contemporary society.

For more information, see: fashionprofessorship.artez.nl and futuremakers.artez.nl.

Jeroen van den Eijnde was appointed in 2016 as professor Product Design & Interior Architecture to shape the professorship E||scape. He was trained as a product designer (ArtEZ) and design historian (Leiden University). He did his PhD research on ideology and theory in Dutch design and fashion education. Van den Eijnde is author and editor of books and articles about art, design and design education. In 2018, he will publish a new handbook for design students and young design professionals. In the function of teacher ‘design history’ and ‘design theory’, he taught, among others at Haagse Hogeschool, department Industrial Product Design, Design Academy Eindhoven and still teaches at the Product Design department of ArtEZ. He was a member of the board of Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Gelderland and Design Platform Arnhem. He was advisor art and design for, among others, the province of Gelderland and the National Fund for Visual Arts, Design and Architecture (now Creative Industries Fund NL). In May 2015, Van den Eijnde was appointed for a period of four years as a member of the domain committee on Visual Arts, Design and Architecture of the Raad voor Cultuur (the Council for Culture): the legal advisory body of the government and parliament in the fields of arts, culture and media. Since 2016 he is one of the program co-ordinators of the Applied Network Design Research that focus on design research at higher vocational institutes. In April 2018 he will be member of the new program board of CLICKnl, the national research and innovation network for creative industries and responsible for the further development and implementation of the Knowledge & Innovation Agenda Creative Industries 2018-2021.

Ian King is a research professor at the University of the Arts, London and London College of Fashion. He is currently Chair of the Research Degrees Committee at the college. King is widely published in academic journals, media publications. His recent books include:  The Aesthetics of Dress (Springer, 2017) explores the relationships between how the body appears and feels in everyday life through aesthetics.

King is also the founder and coordinator of the International Fashion colloquium series that originated in 2011.  Previous locations for Fashion colloquium include: London; Milan; Paris; New York; Amsterdam, Shanghai, Ho Chi Ming, and Sao Paulo, Vietnam.  Future locations include: Rome in September 2019 and Jaipur, India in 2020.

Catelijne de Muijnck is the editor of APRIA and programme maker of ArtEZ studium generale.

www.studiumgenerale.artez.nl/eng

Kim Poldner is Professor of Circular Business at The Hague University of Applied Sciences (THUAS). Poldner obtained her PhD at the University of St. Gallen, Switzerland for which she studied 58 sustainable entrepreneurs in the fashion industry longitudinally. Her research interests evolve at the crossroads of business, aesthetics, and sustainability, and she has written award-winning case studies on sustainable fashion pioneers, such as Veja and Osklen.

Poldner is the founder of the Circular Fashion Lab at Wageningen University & Research, which brings designers and companies together with researchers and students to answer pressing questions in fashion supply chains. The Lab contributes to the creation of new ‘categories’ of materials previously unknown in the fashion industry, disruptive technologies that re-define textile supply-chains and inspired processes of organizing that turn competitors into comparables.

Poldner is a member of the Scientific Committee of the Fashion Colloquium 2018, because she is fascinated by how we can translate sustainable design and technology to marketable innovations. Before she embarked on an academic career, Kim initiated the first eco fashion store in the Netherlands and she was a founder of online platform Eco Fashion World. Her green wardrobe, including her upcycled wedding dress, was exhibited during the exhibition Wear I Am in 2017.

For more information, see: www.wur.eu/circularfashion.

Anneke Smelik is Katrien van Munster professor of Visual Culture at the Radboud University Nijmegen, Netherlands, where she is coordinator of the MA programme ‘Creative Industries’. She published widely on identity, body, memory and technology in cinema, popular culture, and fashion. Recent books include Delft Blue to Denim Blue. Contemporary Dutch FashionMaterializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture; and Thinking Through Fashion. A Guide to Key Theorists.

Smelik is project leader of the research programme “Crafting Wearables; Fashionable Technology”, funded by the Netherlands Organization for Scientific Research, which will be presented together with Pauline van Dongen and Lianne Toussaint at the exhibition of State of Fashion. Searching for the New Luxury.

She is a member of the Scientific Committee of the Fashion Colloquium, because she finds sustainability the most urgent issue for contemporary fashion. Anneke Smelik is developing a new research project on ‘slow’ fashion from the perspective of ‘posthumanism’ and ‘new materialism’, to understand how human and non-human factors are interrelated. If we recognize that humans are deeply entangled with things, such as clothes, it may be easier to see why we need to take responsibility for the earth—and change the fashion system.

See: www.annekesmelik.nl

José Teunissen is Professor of Fashion Theory and Dean of the School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion, UAL. She is the curator of State of Fashion: Searching for the New Luxury (2018).

Teunissen is currently a board member of the Dutch Creative Industries Council and Chair of the network CLICK/Next Fashion, the Dutch Government innovation network for the creative industries in the Netherlands. In 2015, she established the Centre of Expertise Future Makers at ArtEZ, which is dedicated to new production processes in fashion and design. She holds a Visiting Professorship in Fashion Theory and Research at ArtEZ and works as an independent fashion curator.

Teunissen has previously worked as a professor, a journalist for several Dutch newspapers and Dutch broadcast television, and was a curator in Fashion and Costume at the Centraal Museum in Utrecht (1998-2006).

In 2002 at ArtEZ, Teunissen was one of the first professors in the Netherlands to conduct research and develop theory in the field of fashion. She took various hot items from the fashion industry, including the effects of globalization, sustainability, and technology, and used them as the basis for research projects, publications, and exhibitions in association with ArtEZ Press, which earned her an excellent international reputation.

Teunissen has co-edited many books including Fashion and Imagination (2009), The Art of Fashion (2009), Couture Graphique (2013), Fashion Odyssey (2013), The Future of Fashion is Now (2014), and Everything but Clothes (2015). She has also realized many exhibitions, including The Art of Fashion (2009), Couture Graphique (2013), The Future of Fashion is Now (2014), and Everything but Clothes (2015).