Articles by: Charlotte Bik Bandlien 

Charlotte Bik Bandlien is an Oslo-based anthropologist specializing in visual and material culture. Via a triangulation between the roles of researcher, collaborative practitioner, and critic, her interdisciplinary research revolves around contemporary conditions for constructing criticality—currently focusing on dialectics between contemporary art, advertising, anthropology, fashion/value mechanisms, and speculative perspectives. Bandlien has presented work at the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, Parsons the New School for Design in NYC, Oxford University, Design History Society, College Art Association, Theaster Gates' Arts Incubator in Chicago, the American Anthropological Association, the Material Culture hub at University College London, Tate Research and Learning/AAH ++. She has held positions as strategic brand planner at Bates Advertising and researcher at the Norwegian National Institute for Consumer Research, and was contributing editor to the Norwegian fashion journal Personae magazine. Bandlien has been assistant professor of theory and methodology at the Oslo National Academy of the Arts, Department of Design since 2011.

Post Luxury:

Post Luxury:

This article employs the timing of post peak normcore to investigate a trend that surely entailed more than meets the eye. Described as “a unisex fashion trend characterized by unpretentious, normal-looking clothing” by Wikipedia, normcore was in fact not meant to be a trend at all, nor was it meant to be used to refer to a particular code of dress. Initially a spoof marketing term coined by the art collective/trend forecasting group K-Hole in 2013, normcore was originally a subversive concept, anticipating an alternative way forward, proposing anti-distinction as the radical new, analysed here as a mode beyond luxury—as ‘post luxury’. Combining anthropology, consumption theory, and critical fashion theory with a practice-based insight informed by the author’s background in trend analysis and brand planning as well as the art school context, this article attempts to frame and unpack normcore in order to speculate about the future of luxury.