Fashion and Activism
an interview with Orsola de Castro & Otto von Busch
Hester Brands and Maria Gil Mendoza, students MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts, interviewed Orsola de Castro and Otto von Busch during Fashion Colloquium.
Aesthetic Sustainability
an interview with Kristine Harper
Julia Ewa Kaleta, student MA Fashion Strategy, interviews Kristine Harper during Fashion Colloquium.
Loved Clothes Last
a video registration of the plenary session Loved Clothes Last by Orsola de Castro during the Fashion Colloquium.
Hedonistic Sustainability
a video interview with Timotheus Vermeulen
Chinouk Filique de Miranda, student MA Fashion Strategy interviews Timotheus Vermeulen during Fashion Colloquium.
Reinventing the Commons
a conversation with Pascale Gatzen & David Bollier
a conversation with Pascale Gatzen, head of the fashion design's Master programme at ArtEZ University of the Arts & David Bollier, director of 'Reinventing the Commons' program at the Schumacher Center for New Economics
Osklen and Sustainability
an interview with Oskar Metsavaht
Marina Sasseron de Oliveira Cabral, student of MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts interviews Oskar Metsavaht during Fashion Colloquium.
Sensorial Nourishment
Embodiment and the Senses in Food and Fashion
While feeding our dressed bodies, we ‘fashion’—give meaning to—our nourished selves every day. We engage with food daily through embodied practices of eating, tasting and cooking. And we engage with fashion through everyday practices of dressing and wearing clothes.
Living-With and Dying-With
Thoughts on the Affective Matter of Food and Fashion
This article reflects on how human beings, food, and fashion are ‘at stake to each other'. In doing so, Bruggeman and Voet highlight the importance of offering more agency to the affective matter of food and fashion.
Fervent Pharmakon
Food, Fashion and the Haul
This article demonstrates how both food and fashion are closely tied to emotions and to our biosocial beings, offering ‘sweet tastes of aesthetics and sensory pleasure.’ von Busch argues how quick consumption—in these industries of fast and mass production—has paradoxically led to unhealthy addictions (to food and/or social affirmation and self-esteem) and to hunger and emotional starvation. Cooking together or making clothes collectively could, as von Busch suggests, form more intimate and social bonds, as well as healthier relationships with food and fashion.
Elizabeth Losh on the #Hashtag
Radio ArtEZ podcast
Radio ArtEZ is a podcast about agile thinking and the power of the arts. Each episode will delve into relevant questions of today and will broadcast diverse voices from multiple identities, perspectives and experiences. The podcast will feature personal stories and urgent research by ArtEZ students and staff, and recordings of ArtEZ studium generale events.
Take Back Fashion!
Fashion Held in Common
The new curriculum of the M.A. Fashion Design at ArtEZ University of the Arts is called ‘Fashion Held in Common’. In this essay, Pascale Gatzen, head of the programme, shares her vision on fashion, language, and commoning based on her personal experiences, and she explains how this is integrated into the new curriculum.
State of Fashion:
Searching for the New Luxury
There is a definite need for fashion to become relevant and resilient again, and to take itself seriously—not only by producing clothes in a circular and socially responsible way, but also by using its power to envisage a better world. Fashion as a discipline should build on its strengths and use its groundbreaking and seductive power to redefine what beauty, luxury, and seduction entail in the twenty-first century.
Crossovers
Food & Fashion and the Impact of Science
Farid Tabarki interviews Louise Fresco about what fashion can learn from science and food.
Love songs
Fashion, Flirting, and Biosocial Growth
“Everybody’s got the fever, That is something you all know, Fever isn’t such a new thing, Fever started long ago.” Elvis Presley, “Fever” It may seem obvious that the best way to challenge today’s accelerated and unfettered consumerism is with frugality and calls for more lasting experiences—for example, through…
Post Luxury:
Normcore as Node and Prism
This article employs the timing of post peak normcore to investigate a trend that surely entailed more than meets the eye. Described as “a unisex fashion trend characterized by unpretentious, normal-looking clothing” by Wikipedia, normcore was in fact not meant to be a trend at all, nor was it meant to be used to refer to a particular code of dress. Initially a spoof marketing term coined by the art collective/trend forecasting group K-Hole in 2013, normcore was originally a subversive concept, anticipating an alternative way forward, proposing anti-distinction as the radical new, analysed here as a mode beyond luxury—as ‘post luxury’. Combining anthropology, consumption theory, and critical fashion theory with a practice-based insight informed by the author’s background in trend analysis and brand planning as well as the art school context, this article attempts to frame and unpack normcore in order to speculate about the future of luxury.
RES MATERIA
Res Materia is an artistic research project by fashion designer Sanne Karssenberg that proposes a personalized form of the reproduction of garments and an alternative form of value creation. The title Res Materia is inspired by the Latin phrase Res Publica, meaning ‘public affairs’ or ‘commonwealth’. Res is a Latin noun for a substance or a concrete thing. ‘Materia’ is Latin for material. In this project, the material and the thing, or in this case, the textile and the garment, are the starting point for an embodied reproduction of garments—an attempt to bring change into ‘public affairs’.
Re-imagining Fashion as an Ecosystem of Commons
This paper describes how diverse commoners around the world are pioneering creative, post-capitalist forms of provisioning, peer governance, and social practice. The principles of commoning—autonomous ‘world-making’ of provisioning and peer governance from within market/state polities—may hold some answers in helping to imagine a new ecosystem of commons for fashion design, provisioning, and distribution.
Nike Air Pocket:
Fashionable Ecology
This essay contemplates the recent concern with ecologically conscious luxury in fashion alongside similar developments elsewhere in the context of and, indeed, as an expression of a distinct yet increasingly prevalent and pervasive cultural dynamic, a shift in our collective mood or what more popularly tends to be called zeitgeist: the passage from postmodernism to metamodernism.
The Fashion of Relations
from the Reign of Visibility to the Realm of Possibilities
For several years now, academic programmes in Fashion Studies have offered an increasingly diverse variety of teachings on the most abstract and conceptual aspects of fashion. There are courses that dissect its imaginary, analyse its iconography, study the psycho-sociology or semiotics of clothing, or explore the emerging practice of fashion curating to explore the controversial subject of the cultural and industrial death of fashion itself. As though the mere materiality of the garment were no longer a concern for fashion intellectuals today, more and more publications in this field appear to reflect this shift.
What if Our Clothes Were Alive and Photosynthesized?
How can we urgently address all the negative impacts of the fashion industry and have an impact on fashion consumers? Fashion needs to be rethought. Our understanding of textile as a material needs forward and active thinking.
00:21:16:32
00:21:16:32 is a personal intervention on the means of deceit that employ the human to accept a self-manageable and accountable relationship with their privacy. Signing away our rights to our ‘self’ on a daily basis has become a small price to pay to exist in modern society.
Future Everyday Food
How Emerging Technologies Could Impact Food Consumption
Industrial design has gone through various stages of development since its emergence during the first industrial revolution,[1] and the kitchen as well as the preparation and consumption of food have always been closely linked to its developments. As technologies evolved, the disciplines related to these technologies manifested their impact on designed products.
Peter Greenaway
A Demonstration of Research-Based Art
In examining research-based art as a method that uses research for the purpose of making art, Jeroen Lutters uses Peter Greenaway’s film The Cook, The Thief, His Wife & Her Lover (1989) as a case study. Here, we see both the artist as a researcher and art research as research-based art—an artist-researcher who creates an independent artistic composition by using at his own discretion the accepted results of research.
Taste: The Lost Sense, or Why the Culinary Arts Should Integrate with Art Education
A Conversation
This conversation inquires why the culinary arts—representing the sense of taste in relation to food—have hardly found ground in art education. The optical, the audible, the touchable and moveable have found fertile ground in all kinds of art disciplines, whereas the sense of taste and tasting, historically connected to the aesthetic judgment of artistic objects par excellence, has hardly found refuge for its proper object, i.e., food.
The Human Touch in Kitchen Technology
How Technology Changes Our Relationship with Food in the Rational and Ritual Kitchen
The kitchen is the visible cultural manifestation of the technology human beings employ to store, prepare and eat food. Those who look at the history of kitchens will see two approaches for kitchen design that have determined the influence of technology on our relationship with storing, preparing and consuming food in the private households: the technological-rational kitchen and the social-ritual kitchen.
Action Recipes
Paper Cooking for Embodied Recipes
This contribution describes the motivation for ‘Paper Cooking,’ a design workshop that took place during the Food Friction conference. It reflects on its outcomes, with a view to future directions for work by creating ‘Action Recipes,’ a video repository that presents people’s favourite cooking actions. The repository aims to draw attention to unrecognised aspects of embodied knowledge.
Art Research and Food Technology
From Historical Reflections to Creative Speculations
This article is an introduction to three contributions about research related to food and technology. The text introduces the reader to different forms of research from historical reflections, applied action research based on new technologies, and artistic speculations. The author places these different research approaches in the context of the Dutch scientific and higher vocational education, focussing particularly on art academies.
‘FOOD: NOT FOR EATING’
Recipes from the EAT TECH KITCHEN: Speculation, Co-Creation & Play as Critical Practice
Through a series of speculative recipes, cooking demos and co-created dishes, EAT TECH KITCHEN (upon first glance) serves up a playful antidote to the alienation of the modern, Digitised Age.
The Roadmap to Equality in the Arts: Conference Report
In january 2020, ArtEZ Studium Generale organized the conference The Roadmap to Equality In The Arts that dealt with the undeniable under- and misrepresentation of women artists, WOC, non-binary and genderqueer artists in the Dutch art world. Read the written report or watch the conference here.
The Roadmap to Equality in the Arts: Radio ArtEZ podcast series
This six part miniseries is based on the conference The Roadmap to Equality In The Arts that took place 18 January 2020 and dealt with the undeniable under- and misrepresentation of women artists, Women of Colour, non-binary and genderqueer artists in the Dutch art world. With performances, keynotes, presentations and panels the conference attempted to establish stepping-stones on the path to gender equality in the arts by raising awareness, gathering data and mobilising existing networks and collective knowledge.
Harriet Bergman on climate breakdown
Radio ArtEZ podcast
Radio ArtEZ is a podcast about agile thinking and the power of the arts. Each episode will delve into relevant questions of today and will broadcast diverse voices from multiple identities, perspectives and experiences. The podcast will feature personal stories and urgent research by ArtEZ students and staff, and recordings of ArtEZ studium generale events.
Kunst als ‘waarheidsprocedure’
Basiskamp Entre Nous 2017 was een kunstproject dat in de maand september bij Frederiksoord in Drenthe werd gerealiseerd. In een militair basiskamp woonden hier twaalf kunstenaars, die in ruil voor een salaris aan maatschappelijke vraagstukken werkten. Denk dan aan onderwerpen als ouderenzorg, bijvoorbeeld in de gemeente Westerveld waar mensen relatief ver uit elkaar wonen, of aan de effecten van een krimpregio op het onderwijs.
E=mc²
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. E=mc² is het vierde deel in deze serie.
Three Interviews by The School of Missing Men
an Empowerment Initiative in the Making
Over the past year, ArtEZ Studium Generale has invited The School of Missing Men to perform interviews with guests on their programme who have a meaningful relation to the core questions underlying the initiative. The School of Missing Men takes as its starting point the fact that 75 percent of students at BEAR (Base for Experiment, Art and Research, the Bachelor of Fine Arts programme in Arnhem) are women, a standard ratio in fine art departments across the Netherlands and abroad. How is it, then, that women continue to be largely underrepresented in many registers in the broader field of art?
Diversity Stories Podcast
Seizoen 1
Diversity Stories is een podcast over diversiteit in de breedste betekenis van het woord. Persoonlijke reflecties, verhalen en onderzoek van ArtEZ studenten. Verhalen over gender en identiteit, een pittige kritiek op het modesysteem, gesprekken over wat je naam over je verraadt, een heuse Menstruatieopera, übergeestige dialogen tussen twee expats die zich beklagen over de eetcultuur, taal en bureaucratie, en meer!
Diversity Stories Podcast
Season 2: Guess who's coming to dinner too? met Patricia Kaersenhout
Diversity Stories is een podcast over diversiteit in de breedste zin van het woord. De podcast is een verscheidenheid aan persoonlijke reflecties, verhalen en onderzoek door ArtEZ-studenten en -personeel en opgenomen evenementen van studium generale en wordt gehost door studenten Henrike Gootjes en Mel Kikkert. Seizoen 2, aflevering 3.
Diversity Stories Podcast
Season 2: Rajae El Mouhandiz & International Students Circle
ArtEZ studium generale’s Diversity Stories is a podcast about diversity in its broadest sense. The podcast is a variety of personal reflections, stories and research by ArtEZ students and staff, and recorded studium generale events. It is hosted by students Henrike Gootjes and Mel Kikkert. Season 2, episode 1.
Podcast Loose Fit
about diversity in fashion
One size fits all or one size fits nobody? Listen to the podcast about inclusivity, diversity and a more embodied way of fashion, recorded during the two-day conference Fashion Colloquium, Searching for the New Luxury (31 May – 1 June 2018) in Arnhem. The online radio platform Ja Ja Ja Nee Nee Nee made a live broadcast that can be listened to here.
IN TOUCH WITH THE NOW
Stimulating Mindfulness through a Smart Denim Jacket
The smart denim jacket Issho has been designed to encourage a more mindful relation between the wearer, the garment, and their environment. This article explores how Issho may encourage wearers to be more mindful of their embodied presence in the here and now.
The New Bio-ethics of Luxury
Luxury can be a divisive word. Traditionally, luxury indicated a status symbol and worked as a social interface in a context of privilege, exclusivity, and accessibility. However, the last few decades have seen a decline in the possession of material, as luxury appears to have started refining itself from its social interest and become far more personal and individualistic.
Aesthetic Sustainability
Why do we dispose of some things before their use has expired, while others are kept and repaired time and time again, despite their wear and tear?
Fashioning Tradition:
The Tai Lue Project
Fashion designers Alison Welsh and Jasper Chadprajong-Smith are working hand-in-hand with Tai Lue weavers from the Silalang community in Nan province, a mountainous agricultural region of north-east Thailand. Together they are developing new garments using traditional hand-woven cotton textiles. The project aims to explore methods of equipping local artisans with knowledge in design thinking and the ability to integrate their cultural identity into their cloth in an authentic and thoughtful way.
Luxurizing Pre-loved Clothes:
A Material and Emotional Future of Luxury
Pre-loved clothes have much to offer the consumer as a future form of luxury, not in the least because of their sustainability. However, despite their quality and exclusivity, not all pre-loved clothes are believed to offer consumers the luxury value vintage clothes do. Can pre-loved clothes become a luxury, and if so, how? This raises questions about how luxury fashion comes into being and about the stakes of human versus material agency in processes of the ‘luxurization’ of fashion.
Shy Radicals by Hamja Ahsan – Reading and Interview
Empowerment series by ArtEZ studium generale
As an artist it is important to make your voice heard. How do artists with a less privileged position, or artist who are less represented, get their points across while taking account of diverse perspectives? In this ArtEZ studium generale series an interview with artist and activist Hamja Ahsan and a reading of his book ‘Shy Radicals’ which had a great impact in the fields of pedagogy, activism and art.
Tigress Kali Score
Using oral storytelling and sound, a narrative sets the coordinates of a game-world, navigating the contradictions in the interrelations of ‘nature’ and ‘technology.’ It employs the ultrasonic spectrum used in wildlife telemetry as a mythopoeic time and space, wherein the human hearing range and a shapeshifting being are the centre of the work.
Blood Processing
‘Blood Processing' focuses on the industrial slaughterhouse as a case study for the bigger phenomenon of anthropocentrism. Systems and constructions such as an extreme focus on hygiene regulations inside the slaughterhouse are used to keep the animal as Other as possible. To challenge this, ‘Blood Processing' reimagines the industrial slaughterhouse from the perspective of the blood present in this space. Through this blood, a new narrative is created that challenges binary thinking.
Co-Authoring the Future
Participatory Performance and the Climate Crisis
Framed by the metaphor of a road trip, ‘Co-authoring the Future’ explores the use of participatory performance in building cultural discourse about decision-making during the climate crisis. An audio narration accompanies the written work, attempting to explore the theories discussed in the form of a correspondence between the author and her elusive self-awareness.
No School Station
a Radio ArtEZ miniseries
This four-part miniseries of Radio ArtEZ is on education outside of the educational institutions. The current state of art education and the way it is organized is quite traditional. Thoughts about change often start from existing concepts. But what happens when we think in a radically different way?
Epiloog / These things take time
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Epiloog / These things take time is het twaalfde en laatste deel in deze serie.
Daar waar de tijd stopt
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Daar waar de tijd stopt is het elfde deel in deze serie.
Oneindige eindigheid
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Oneindige eindigheid is het tiende deel in deze serie.
‘Remember that time is money’
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. 'Remember that time is money' is het negende deel in deze serie.
Jouw tijd is niet mijn tijd
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Jouw tijd is niet mijn tijd is het achtste deel in deze serie.
Haast u langzaam
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Haast u langzaam is het zevende deel in deze serie.
Na verloop van tijd
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Na verloop van tijd is het zesde deel in deze serie.
His-story
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. His-story is het vijfde deel in deze serie.
Daar waar we geen ogen hebben
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. Daar waar we geen ogen hebben is het derde deel in deze serie.
De kunst en de klok
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. De kunst en de klok is het tweede deel in deze serie
Proloog
C H R O N O T O P I A
Veel kunstenaars hebben zich op verschillende manieren - direct of indirect, als materiaal of als concept - bezig gehouden met het fenomeen tijd. In C H R O N O T O P I A, een serie essays door Sanne de Vries, wordt het idee van tijd onderzocht, door kunstwerken te beschouwen en te interpreteren. De proloog is het eerste deel in deze serie.
Interview with Huang Jing Yuan: a Social Art Practitioner from China
An interview with Huang Jing Yuan within the framework of her lecture for ArtEZ Studium Generale, in which the Chinese artist highlighted several examples of feminist movements in China, offering a first-hand glimpse into the challenges and struggles women are facing in that country. During the interview, Huang also shared how she defines her artistic practice as a “social practice”, seeing this term as a way to navigate through difficult questions of intersectionality.
Stepping out of the Clean Well-Lighted Space
Reflections on Emily Witt’s Lecture at Studium Generale
Emily Witt's book Future Sex, and her lecture at the ArtEZ Studium Generale event 'Sex and the Sexual Politics of the Gaze' on 12 February 2018 inspired Data Bosma and Rosan van Doeselaar to dig further into the gender-biased world of internet dating.
