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Response-ability in Times of Precarity Surface Design as Embedded Critique
This paper considers a hybrid approach to making fashion by looking at the creation of Reu Jacket, ‘a zero-waste responsive garment’ that drew inspiration from lichen as a model for adaptive resilience. The approach to designing the garment established an experimental, practice-based space to explore the undecided and emergent. In prototyping this approach, the work speculated on the value of growth through reconfiguration.
Living-With and Dying-With Thoughts on the Affective Matter of Food and Fashion
This article reflects on how human beings, food, and fashion are ‘at stake to each other'. In doing so, Bruggeman and Voet highlight the importance of offering more agency to the affective matter of food and fashion.
Sensorial Nourishment Embodiment and the Senses in Food and Fashion
While feeding our dressed bodies, we ‘fashion’—give meaning to—our nourished selves every day. We engage with food daily through embodied practices of eating, tasting and cooking. And we engage with fashion through everyday practices of dressing and wearing clothes.
Fervent Pharmakon Food, Fashion and the Haul
This article demonstrates how both food and fashion are closely tied to emotions and to our biosocial beings, offering ‘sweet tastes of aesthetics and sensory pleasure.’ von Busch argues how quick consumption—in these industries of fast and mass production—has paradoxically led to unhealthy addictions (to food and/or social affirmation and self-esteem) and to hunger and emotional starvation. Cooking together or making clothes collectively could, as von Busch suggests, form more intimate and social bonds, as well as healthier relationships with food and fashion.
Editorial Board: Searching for the New Luxury?
Daniëlle Bruggeman, Jeroen van den Eijnde, Ian King, Catelijne de Muijnck, Kim Poldner, Anneke Smelik, and José Teunissen
Take Back Fashion! Fashion Held in Common
The new curriculum of the M.A. Fashion Design at ArtEZ University of the Arts is called ‘Fashion Held in Common’. In this essay, Pascale Gatzen, head of the programme, shares her vision on fashion, language, and commoning based on her personal experiences, and she explains how this is integrated into the new curriculum.
State of Fashion: Searching for the New Luxury
There is a definite need for fashion to become relevant and resilient again, and to take itself seriously—not only by producing clothes in a circular and socially responsible way, but also by using its power to envisage a better world.  Fashion as a discipline should build on its strengths and use its groundbreaking and seductive power to redefine what beauty, luxury, and seduction entail in the twenty-first century.
Crossovers Food & Fashion and the Impact of Science
Farid Tabarki interviews Louise Fresco about what fashion can learn from science and food.
Love songs Fashion, Flirting, and Biosocial Growth
“Everybody’s got the fever, That is something you all know, Fever isn’t such a new thing, Fever started long ago.” Elvis Presley, “Fever”   It may seem obvious that the best way to challenge today’s accelerated and unfettered consumerism is with frugality and calls for more lasting experiences—for example, through…
Aesthetic Sustainability an interview with Kristine Harper
Julia Ewa Kaleta, student MA Fashion Strategy, interviews Kristine Harper during Fashion Colloquium.
Loved Clothes Last
a video registration of the plenary session Loved Clothes Last by Orsola de Castro during the Fashion Colloquium.
Hedonistic Sustainability a video interview with Timotheus Vermeulen
Chinouk Filique de Miranda, student MA Fashion Strategy interviews Timotheus Vermeulen during Fashion Colloquium.
Reinventing the Commons a conversation with Pascale Gatzen & David Bollier
a conversation with Pascale Gatzen, head of the fashion design's Master programme at ArtEZ University of the Arts & David Bollier, director of 'Reinventing the Commons' program at the Schumacher Center for New Economics
Fashion and Activism an interview with Orsola de Castro & Otto von Busch
Hester Brands and Maria Gil Mendoza, students MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts, interviewed Orsola de Castro and Otto von Busch during Fashion Colloquium.
Osklen and Sustainability an interview with Oskar Metsavaht
Marina Sasseron de Oliveira Cabral, student of MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts interviews Oskar Metsavaht during Fashion Colloquium.
Post Luxury: Normcore as Node and Prism
This article employs the timing of post peak normcore to investigate a trend that surely entailed more than meets the eye. Described as “a unisex fashion trend characterized by unpretentious, normal-looking clothing” by Wikipedia, normcore was in fact not meant to be a trend at all, nor was it meant to be used to refer to a particular code of dress. Initially a spoof marketing term coined by the art collective/trend forecasting group K-Hole in 2013, normcore was originally a subversive concept, anticipating an alternative way forward, proposing anti-distinction as the radical new, analysed here as a mode beyond luxury—as ‘post luxury’. Combining anthropology, consumption theory, and critical fashion theory with a practice-based insight informed by the author’s background in trend analysis and brand planning as well as the art school context, this article attempts to frame and unpack normcore in order to speculate about the future of luxury.
Res Materia is an artistic research project by fashion designer Sanne Karssenberg that proposes a personalized form of the reproduction of garments and an alternative form of value creation. The title Res Materia is inspired by the Latin phrase Res Publica, meaning ‘public affairs’ or ‘commonwealth’. Res is a Latin noun for a substance or a concrete thing. ‘Materia’ is Latin for material. In this project, the material and the thing, or in this case, the textile and the garment, are the starting point for an embodied reproduction of garments—an attempt to bring change into ‘public affairs’.
Re-imagining Fashion as an Ecosystem of Commons
This paper describes how diverse commoners around the world are pioneering creative, post-capitalist forms of provisioning, peer governance, and social practice. The principles of commoning—autonomous ‘world-making’ of provisioning and peer governance from within market/state polities—may hold some answers in helping to imagine a new ecosystem of commons for fashion design, provisioning, and distribution.
Nike Air Pocket: Fashionable Ecology
This essay contemplates the recent concern with ecologically conscious luxury in fashion alongside similar developments elsewhere in the context of and, indeed, as an expression of a distinct yet increasingly prevalent and pervasive cultural dynamic, a shift in our collective mood or what more popularly tends to be called zeitgeist: the passage from postmodernism to metamodernism.
The Fashion of Relations from the Reign of Visibility to the Realm of Possibilities
For several years now, academic programmes in Fashion Studies have offered an increasingly diverse variety of teachings on the most abstract and conceptual aspects of fashion. There are courses that dissect its imaginary, analyse its iconography, study the psycho-sociology or semiotics of clothing, or explore the emerging practice of fashion curating to explore the controversial subject of the cultural and industrial death of fashion itself. As though the mere materiality of the garment were no longer a concern for fashion intellectuals today, more and more publications in this field appear to reflect this shift.
What if Our Clothes Were Alive and Photosynthesized?
How can we urgently address all the negative impacts of the fashion industry and have an impact on fashion consumers? Fashion needs to be rethought. Our understanding of textile as a material needs forward and active thinking.